Tuesday, January 13, 2015

"+*ç%*/*"*ç%"/ - just not strong enough!!!

start-sequence of "insanity of grandeur" and "der mit dem fels tanzt"... "easy" when you are really tall... nails the shorter you  get... 

...for over two and a half months i was trying to take advantage of a very unusually warm and dry "winter-season" in chironico... but still it was too cold for me for this 30+ moves.... i was constantly freezing off the last moves of "insanity of grandeur", it was just too cold, too wet, too dry, i did have too much stress on work, not enough sleep, too much sleep, bad luck with slipping off footholds and jugs while near perfect conditions... i felt really strong over this time, could climb twice a day pretty solid into the last two moves just to come back two days later and not beeing able to climb through the start anymore. i could just not believe something went wrong all the time...!!!

...over the last two weeks i could feel like my form went slightly down... i missed the "snap", felt tired, despite two full rest days i felt not really recovered anymore... , i could feel my elbows, i could feel a pulley in the index-finger... but i kept pushing... i felt so close... so i was just "waiting" for THE PERFECT DAY.... or winter to close the season.

what i was waiting for: THE PERFECT DAY.... cause it was windy and it was warm (and in the night too... so the rock was not too cold to climb on...)

...and then THE DAY was here; foen-wind... 15C... and also (very important) during the night warm as well, so the stone did not cool down too much... some friends joined in, lots of pads, spotters, good vibes and lots of encouragement...

... so i sett off and managed to get through the start-part, felt still strong at the resting point on the big sloper-band, had cold fingers but could still feel the holds... (very good!!!)

after 20moves... "rest-point one". i still felt strong (a must if you want to have a chance for the lip) and could still feel my fingertips... (very important for me as well) - not so convenient as it may looks like... needs a lot of body tension as its pretty steep and sloppy...

then two moves from the lip i could feel how my fingers suddenly started to open the grip - i just barley made it to the lip... but i made it.

left hand fingers on the way to open... super close.... but i made it to the lip...  good thing there is no sound to this pic.... ;)

rest point number two. even if it looks like a very good rest... its not so convenient as well - steep and sloppy - especially after 30 more or less hard moves...

...three weeks ago i already was hanging up there, back then i felt way stronger but had so cold i just numbed out while shaking out and desperately trying to get any sensation back into my fingertips. this time it was better! i still got some sensation, i could feel the holds... but i was super tired... i got some chalk and went for the mantle... when suddenly my forearms started to cramp and in pure disbelief i could feel and see my fingers opening their grip... and i instead of a glorious top-out i was sitting on the pads...

... so today it was very simple: no more excuses anymore... i was just not strong enough!!!

one second after i went for the mantle... my forearms started to cramp and my fingers opened the grip... what sent me down to the pads...

... looking at the weather forecast i may get one last chance before it will be too cold for the next two months.... i am so tired... but i will definitely go for it... you think you have no chance? go and take it ;)

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

again and again - and a little SEND to brake to routine...

going down on the last moves on "insanity"; too warm, too cold, too wet, too dry, too humid

falling from the move to the top.... next day it should finally go!!!!

back after two rest days... ready to send: perfect temps, perfectly rested, but the mantel soaking wet; cleaning the top for two hours from the moss that soaked the boulder for days - then too tired to make it through the bottom part...

then suddenly not beeing able to climb through the first moves anymore..... what else ;)

and then you can get to the lip and you can rest for minutes (not too good of a rest when you are cold and tired) and desperately try to get any sensation back into your fingers - fail to do so - and go down....

 i brushed it up some years ago, got close to send, got injured and now finally sent ;) at least i managed to send "big-cat"-standstart. Super powerful, great moves, subtle mantle at the end - full package - one of the best of the grade in ticino for sure!!! a bit a shame it's pretty morpho... but then so much more fun to climb if you are not (super) tall.... around 8A for the TALL, 8A+ for the intermediate (me), 8B for the shorties...  - and if i would try the low-start of big-cat for once not just after falling of the end of "insanity" - i think i could have a good go on the full line as well ;)

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

night sessions - go the extra mile - last moves again...

over 10days chironico looked more or less like that - every square-milimeter of rock was WET (never seen something like this for so long in ticino) - one day we waited all day long for the rock to dry but it didn't.... so at 7pm we went north....

8PM, through the gotthardo to sustenpass; road closed... does not matter, take the walk.... thanks nico for joining in... was a great session... as always... ;)

30th of november, 0:30AM, 2'000m above sea level, SUSTENPASS, 0C, wind.... climbing up to the last move of "highlander-project" - once more. felt strong as never before - but just got this little bit too cold.... crazy... looks like it does not matter if its 15C or 0C.... just freeze off from the last two moves...

back at the car....  was a nice night out at the boulders..... ;)

few days later; chironico finally dry again... second last move on "insanity of grandeur"....

great progress on "big cat"-stand.... but going down at the mantel... too tired after 4hrs of going a muerte at "insanity"....

and well what do you do on a evening at home, 4degrees, rainy....; go stand-up-paddle... thanks for the night-paddle-out anna... what a great experience...  ;)

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

trick yourself - and why just do nothing is best to climb 9a

great article from dave macleod!!! when you want to achieve something in life - willpower is very crucial - especially when you try to balance a job, a high climbing level and social/family life:


on a side note: just about the "cycle/walk" to work: may thats not really "the" thing to do when you want to peak (just) in sport climbing/bouldering (when you are already pretty ok with your weight anyway). how many of the top-climbers-boulderers are cardio-freaks??? lot's of biking for example will give you bigger muscles on your legs which are just for no use in hard climbing. more muscles in your legs is more weight. and this muscles in your leg you really don't need when you pull on a small crimp in a roof. and then recent studies show that many people who do cardio use this as an "excuse to eat more" - and so they eat more and more unhealthy stuff then others (non cardio's) and consequently they are heavier as well.

so the bottom line for climbing will be: avoid anything that makes you gain muscles because thats just more weight and that will take your ass down to the ground. just hang around on the couch all day long (=no muscle gain there), facebook, twitter and instagram will keep your mind busy and just eat green salad with no sauce (or just eat nothing at all). but don't forget to go climbing... you still need that!!! and your 9a route project will never feel easier... ;)

Friday, November 28, 2014

no shortcuts - don't cheat yourself

instead of a glorious send of the super classic "insanity of grandeur, 8C" (we don't take "webby-grades" too serious, do we? he's supernatural... ;) - i am back at the start again... : after falling on the second last move to the lip on "insanity" and powering through the super hard start sequence up the four times a day i knew something was "wrong" - i never ever was able to "cruise" this start sequence so many times before in a session. did i got that much stronger? well that would be nice. but honestly i don't think so (even if i feel stronger, but not THAT much stronger).

close-up from the intermediate-"hold" from which i do have to move my feet:
 before the breake it was super bad,
as it broke it got quite "juggy", making it possible to suddenly control this heinous start sequence
and changing the character of the two existing boulders way too much.
so i glued the broken part back - it's pretty heinous again... ;)

late last spring i broke a part of this not so good intermediate hold - making it better. i did not think that it was much of a difference but kept the broken part at home. obviously i was wrong and it was quite a big difference. i nearly could cross now on what was just a really bad intermediate before. so i glued the broken part back - AND got hammered. it took me another two sessions to just get through this three start moves again... and it feels as desperate and insecure as it felt before the break! then it took me another two sessions to get back one move below my highpoint. three weeks "lost" and i may will not send this season anymore. but it felt like "cheating" and "wrong" to keep climbing with the bigger hold as i knew how hard it was before. hopefully i did not loose too much time. i finally feel like the "resistance"-power is coming back again and i don't get suddenly tired anymore. it's nice to feel strong again ;)

now that rain should stop next week and if i am lucky (for once) i get a few more decent (not too cold) days and will be able to finish up "insanity" before winter hits - if i don't i don't mind too much as it's just such a brilliant piece of climbing. but then there is this "big cat" waiting on the left as well... :)

where i went down some days ago: three more moves and this nasty mantle.
epic in full swing again.... ;)

Saturday, November 15, 2014

back on track...

it was COLD up there at sustenpass - but so beautiful with snow and the road closed

nothing better then great people, great climbing and great food... :) on may way back... crazy solo session up at sustenpass. 80min hike, 3C and 60+km/h wind (flying pads).... perfect friction... but bit too cold... froze off the last move of highlander again - and then got even some good links in "fetter hase project"....

went down on the match.... after freezing off two times after the 8B part... i made it to the second last move (before the mantel) of "insanity" on my third try of the day... why not on my first try?! thanx for that great (night) session prisca and nico!!!
making good progress on "big cat" (standstart) -
 if you are tall you miss all this crazy "midget-moves" on the "mellow terrain".... what a shame ;)

2more moves on insanity... and making good progress on the "easy" (8B? for my size) super cool standstart of "big cat". so i am on that point again on going down on the last move of everything...  would be nice to finish off something before winter will def. close the season. so when this shitty weather (record rainfall in ticino the second week in a row...) would for once turn nice again i may even could send something this season - looks like mid next week the rain will finally stop... going insane or be sane is the question... ;)

had a great day with my friend jesse (check out his blog). we had a great climbing day and a great dinner at "defanti" in lavorgo (chironico) :)

giving in is not an option - no matter what... ;)

Sunday, November 9, 2014

better days to come

i got quite some feedback about my latest blog post. thanx everybody! people were wondering what the hell was going on with me. well nothing too special. you know that life can really su*k. but mostly it's about your life, cause everybody else seems to have a hell of a good time. thats what you get when you follow your "friends" on facebook, or 8X.nu (no i am not on fb nor on 8X.ohno). on fb (climbing) life is just so easy, all boulders are soft, everybody is super strong, everything is second go and 6A+ at max... , there are 2day epics (sic)... but yes there are also other (climbing)people out there which don't have 24/7 the greatest fun, struggle to balance work,climbing,life - and (climbing)life can really su*k sometimes... and as it is in real life there are better days to come - that's it, that's al.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

bad timing, bad decisions, bad everything...

once again.... totally crazy... i felt strong and was able to climb solid into the last move for about 10times during rain/fog with wet holds at the start of the month (like in april). with two weeks of holidays (what means enough sleep and recovery) and better weather in the forecast i was sure this four weeks in october should be more then enough to complete my nemesis-project up there at sustenpass. i was sure all i needed was some dry days.

but i should have had known better... somehow it only got worser and worser...... a distracted mind because of personal/familiy-troubles, bad skin, bad luck and too warm weather (up to 20degrees) made me feel like shit during the last three weeks. 

every day up there i felt like i was just fighting against sliding off the holds. while i was training in the gym i felt super strong and fit... but as soon as i was up there... i was too late at the crag... too early... not rested enough... rested too long... it once was my speciality to be at the right place at the right moment... somehow, at the moment it looks like i "lost" this.... and i constantly felt like being at the wrong place at wrong moment... not just in climbing - and then the snow arrived...

Saturday, October 25, 2014

perfection - a must see!!!

the riding skills, the camera work, the music - perfection!!!

Friday, October 24, 2014

crazy swizzy weather

CRAZY - perfect weather again.... for the next 14days... if there just would not be this 80cm of SNOW -*ç%&£é:!;/&(ç*"+??!!!   ... well i will "wait"... train my ass off and may i get another chance... may not... we will see... time to get stronger anyway... ;)